Know all about Rice and Three, the unique south Asian culinary gem born in Manchester
The World War II migration led to the development of this culinary tradition that has now become uniquely Mancunian
By Vibhuti PathakMar 02, 2024
In the heart of Greater Manchester, a hidden gem beckons the taste buds of locals and curious visitors alike – the legendary 'Rice and Three' cafes. Nestled in the Northern Quarter, these unassuming eateries offer a uniquely Mancunian twist to south Asian cuisine.
In the 1980s, the concept of 'Rice and Three' cafes made its debut in Greater Manchester, and one of the most renowned establishments is This and That in the Northern Quarter. Formerly owned by the Essa family, they decided to sell the business due to the commute from Bolton, opting to open two stores in their hometown instead, giving rise to 'Rice and Three'.
The menu featured options like chicken, kheema, lamb, chana, kidney beans, cauliflower, and paneer, with daily rotations. But there is a speciality of the this dish 'Rice and Three', it is not an ordinary dish which generally south Asians especially from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh or any other surrounding country prefer.
The interconnection of Asian rice dishes, acting as a cultural bridge that binds the roots of British Asians with their Asian heritage. It particularly resonates with the boomer generation, evoking nostalgia and recalling cherished childhood dishes.
The significance of soul-comforting food, offering a homely ambiance amid the hustle and bustle of the busy city, distinct from the fast-food landscape.
Emphasizing the fusion of Asian and British cultures, the narrative delves into the historical context of World War II migration, illustrating how this culinary tradition reflects the harmonious blending of diverse influences in contemporary British society.
Thali, meaning 'large plate' in Hindi, features an elaborate serving style with rice, naan, and assorted curries in small bowls. In contrast, the more straightforward 'Rice and Three' concept originated at This & That in Manchester's Northern Quarter in 1984.
The canteen catered to south Asian communities and locals unfamiliar with the cuisine. The unique culinary tradition evolved due to post-World War II industrial changes, drawing migrant workers to the textile warehouses.
Self-employment and communal support blossomed, leading to the rise of canteens prioritizing speed and convenience.
In the ever-evolving culinary landscape of Manchester, the 'Rice and Three' tradition remains a testament to the city's rich history, diverse communities, and the enduring appeal of a hearty, quick, and affordable meal. Visit a local café, a point at your favourites, and savour the unique fusion of Mancunian warmth and south Asian flavours.
The most famous locations that serve the dish 'Rice and Three' are located in the main hub of Manchester, are as follows:
This & That Restaurant, Soap Street, Manchester (Photo credit: This & That Cafe)
Since 1984, this family-run establishment stands as a beloved Indian curry house in the heart of Manchester. Nestled on Soap Street in the vibrant Northern Quarter, they offer an extensive selection of delectable curries. Every dish is crafted with care, using homemade recipes and fresh whole spices to ensure an authentic taste and a burst of maximum flavour. Discover the essence of our culinary tradition as we continue to be a cherished destination for those seeking an exceptional dining experience in Manchester's lively food scene.
Cafe Marhaba, Back Piccadilly
Nestled in the heart of the city on Back Piccadilly, Cafe Marhaba is an unassuming gem that might escape notice at first glance. This classic curry cafe, though discreet, is a favorite among those in the know, offering a delightful range of curry and rice. Don't miss out on the experience at this discreet city-centre spot.
Yadgar, in contrast to This and That, has steadfastly maintained its original charm, resisting the allure of renovation. As one of the Northern Quarter's longstanding establishments, this no-frills gem proudly offers a 'rice and three' experience on humble paper plates, all for a fiver. Amidst its unpretentious setting, Yadgar also boasts a menu featuring other acclaimed homemade dishes. You can find this timeless eatery at 71 Thomas Street, Manchester M4 1LQ, inviting patrons to savor a taste of tradition in the heart of the city.
The previous proprietors of This and That have brought the authentic rice and three experience to their hometown of Bolton, now showcased in their two restaurants. While it might be debated whether it's the true original, there's no doubt about its deliciousness. Plus, affordability is a highlight, with a plate of one meat, two veg, and rice priced at just £4.60. You can enjoy this culinary delight at either 90-82 Bradshawgate or 152 Deane Road, Bolton, experiencing the rich flavors that have become a hallmark of their establishments.
Check the joints, stay connected to your roots, try the popular dish, 'rice and three'!
ACTOR Raj Ghatak praised the enduring appeal of The Producers as he takes on a role in the hit Broadway show, now playing in the West End.
Ghatak is the first person of colour to portray Carmen Ghia, the flamboyant partner of eccentric director Roger DeBris (Trevor Ashley) and, consequently, his character is dressed in the south Asian attire of sherwani (tunic) and kurta pyjama.
In an interview with Eastern Eye, he said, “The world was arguably a happier place when it was first written.
“But what we’re finding now is that audiences are so grateful to laugh. They sit down, immerse themselves in the story, and forget everything else. That’s the power of theatre.”
Describing the show as a kind of “therapy” for modern times, Ghatak said, “Audiences tell us how welcome it is to laugh so hard again”.
It is the first major London revival of American filmmaker and actor Mel Brooks’ classic, which earned an unprecedented 12 Tony Awards, and has transferred from a sold-out run at the Menier Chocolate Factory to the Garrick Theatre.
Based on Brooks’ 1967 cult film, the story follows two desperate Broadway producers who scheme to get rich by producing a flop, only for their plan to go hilariously wrong.
Trevor Ashley as Roger DeBris and Ghatak as Carmen Ghia in The Producers
Teeming with Brooks’ signature wit, the show delights in its irreverence, sending up everything from show business to politics. Ghatak said, “It’s massively exciting to be part of it. And this time around, they’ve leaned in to my ethnicity. I wear a kurta pajama and a sherwani – things that have obviously never been done before. It gives us visibility.”
Two decades ago, Ghatak starred in Bombay Dreams, AR Rahman’s West End musical produced by Andrew Lloyd Webber, that became a cultural turning point for British Asian performers.
Ghatak recalled how the show “broke the glass ceiling for south Asian actors”.
He said, “At the time, it was just a job – a very high-profile one. But, years later, people tell me they were taken to see that show as children, and because of it, they felt they had permission to be an actor. That’s something that was never the case in my day.”
That generational shift is something Ghatak takes pride in. “When I look back, it feels like we’ve come a long way. But we still have a long way to go.”
Being part of The Producers brought Ghatak face to face with one of his heroes. Brooks himself, now 99, had to approve his casting.
The actor said, “They filmed my meeting. I met the team on a Friday afternoon, and on Monday morning they said, ‘Pending Mel Brooks’ approval, we’d like to offer you the role.’ I remember thinking, if I don’t get his approval, does this mean I can’t do the job?”
The cast had four weeks of full-time rehearsals. “For that production, I watched both films,” Ghatak said, referring to the 1967 original and the 2005 version with Nathan Lane and Matthew Broderick.
“I wanted to understand the source material. I’m a firm believer that if it’s not broke, don’t fix it. Otherwise, you’re changing something for the sake of it. But rehearsals are where you experiment and play.” He credited both Brooks’ writing and Patrick Marber’s direction for the show’s humour.
“Our director comes from a background of plays. My own background is in plays, TV and film. So, we both approached this with the idea that, however heightened the situation or character, it must be grounded in truth,” he said.
Ghatak trained at the Royal Central School of Speech and Drama and Queen Mary University in London and has worked with Emma Thompson, Nicole Kidman, Riz Ahmed, Sir Derek Jacobi, Ewan M c G r e - g o r, Hugh Jackman and Benedict Cumberbatch. His stage credits include The Kite Runner, Life of Pi, Everybody’s Talking About Jamie and The Father and the Assassin. He has worked with some of the most respected directors in theatre, including Dominic Cooke, Indhu Rubasingham, Rufus Norris, Kerry Michael and now Marber.
Despite his achievements, the actor is conscious of the ongoing struggles for representation. He said, “As much as the situation has improved, we’ve still got a long way to go. Roles that challenge me, excite me. There are so many stories from the Asian subcontinent and diaspora that deserve to be told.
“When I started, there were very few people I could look to as role models. That’s why I’ve become such a champion for diversity and inclusion.”
Born and raised in north London to Bengali parents from Kolkata, he grew up surrounded by music and culture.
“My father was a doctor, and my mother was a chemistry teacher,” Ghatak said, adding, “But there was always music at home. My father sings Rabindra Sangeet, my mother plays guitar, and my sister is a classical singer.” Initially, he didn’t see acting as a viable career. “I went to a very academic school.
My interests were split between medical sciences and the performing arts.”
Eventually, he followed his childhood passion and trained as an actor.
He said, “A show like The Producers challenges me in a different way - it makes me laugh and it makes me think. That’s what keeps me passionate about the work.”
Asked what continues to excite him about musical theatre, Ghatak said, “Being in this show and telling this story. The comedy, the chaos, the craft… it’s such a joy. And to be the only person of colour among the six principal cast members, representing our community on such a stage, that’s something I’m proud of.”
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