V&A exhibition celebrates Mughal art and architecture’s timeless legacy
Rare manuscripts and masterpieces highlight Indian rulers' patronage of fine art
A
carpet displayed at the V&A; artefacts crafted from
mother of pearl, rock crystal, jade, and precious metals;
a model of Mumtaz Mahal’s cenotaph; bejewelled
daggers and a spoon; a painting of Akbar handing the
imperial crown to Shah Jahan in Jahangir’s presence;
another painting from the same era; Susan Stronge;
and a portrait of Shah Jahan holding an emerald by
Muhammad ‘Abed, with borders by Harif
By Amit RoyNov 16, 2024
OF COURSE, we Asians know all there is to know about Mughal history from two impeccable sources.
One is K Asif’s classic 1960 movie, Mughal-e-Azam, which stars Prithviraj Kapoor as the emperor Akbar, who forbids his son, Salim (Dilip Kumar) from pursuing his doomed love affair with a dancing girl, Anarkali (Madhubala).
And then those of us who are scholars of Mughal history have relied on the 2008 film, Jodhaa Akbar, in which the young Akbar romances a Rajput princess, Jodhaa Bai of Amber. They were played by Hrithik Roshan and Aishwarya Rai, respectively.
And so we are well prepared for our trip to the V&A to see The Great Mughals: Art, Architecture and Opulence. It’s so exquisite that I bought both the catalogue and the poster. The exhibition has been curated by Susan Stronge, senior curator in the V&A’s Asian department. One of the world’s leading experts on Mughal art, this is her swansong before she retires.
“This is the first exhibition to reveal the internationalist art and culture of the Mughal court,” she said. “Hindustani artists, Iranian masters and even a few Europeans came together in the imperial workshops to create a new, hybrid art. We are pleased to display some of their greatest creations, many of which have never been exhibited before.”
Somewhere in the exhibition are the words of the Sufi poet and scholar, Amir Khushrow (1253-1325): “If there is Paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this.”
If there is an artistic paradise in London, then this exhibition at the V&A is it. It also proves that the Mughals, their art, culture and civilisation have always been an integral part of India.
The exhibition has an evocative video of the magical Taj Mahal in Agra, along with marble work from the mausoleum. I have been there a few times, seen it at dawn, at noon and at night and especially remember the trip with Princess Diana (the poor girl called it a “healing experience”).
The decoration of the Taj Mahal introduced a style that profoundly influenced all the arts of Shah Jahan’s reign. Blossoming plants and flowers were carved in stone, woven and embroidered on textiles, painted in the borders of albums and enamelled in gold on objects made for the court. These stylised blossoms evoke an ideal world in which they would live forever, untouched by decay, disease, famine or poverty. They proclaim the empire as a garden of paradise under the emperor’s just rule. And it was this which made Khushrow utter his famous words.
The exhibition showcases more than 200 objects across three sections spanning the reigns of Emperors Akbar (1556- 1605), Jahangir (1605-1627) and Shah Jahan (1628-1658) and celebrates the craftsmanship and creativity of their court workshops.
Rarely shown paintings and illustrated manuscripts not seen for a generation are displayed alongside delicate textiles, brilliantly coloured carpets and fine objects made of mother of pearl, rock crystal, jade and precious metals, the V&A points out.
The Mughal dynasty was founded in 1526 by Babur, a Timurid prince and ruler from Central Asia. At its peak, it was one of the wealthiest and most progressive empires in the world, and extended from Kabul in present-day Afghanistan, to the borders of the Deccan sultanates in the south, and from Gujarat in the west to present-day Bangladesh in the east.
Susan Stronge
The golden age of Mughal art lasted from about 1580 to 1650 and spanned the reigns of the three emperors. The imperial workshops employed Hindu and Muslim artists and craftsmen from across the newly conquered territories. Persian was the cultural language of the multilingual empire, which attracted skilled Iranian painters, calligraphers, architects and many others to the wealthy, cosmopolitan court. This exhibition traces the creation and evolution of a distinctively Mughal art. From jewelled vessels to richly coloured velvets and the art of the book to architecture, it examines the many techniques and conventions that were constantly absorbed and reimagined.
As children growing up in India, we were taught that Akbar was, as PG Wodehouse would put it, a thoroughly good egg (despite not allowing Salim to marry the girl he loved in Mughal-eAzam). He was 14 when he suddenly became emperor. He proved to be one of the greatest rulers in Indian history.
Akbar constantly encouraged innovation and c r e a t i v i t y . Workshops supplied his court with luxury products made by craftsmen from across the empire and from Iran. From the 1580s, they started to absorb elements of European art brought by Jesuit missionaries who came to Akbar’s court from the Portuguese territory of Goa. All of these different traditions were combined to create a vibrant new art.
For the Iranian festival of Nowruz (New Year), the court was decorated with luxurious textiles and carpets. Akbar championed new crafts and established court workshops, including goldsmiths and the House of Books. Precious objects made in these workshops are on display, including two rarely seen folios from the colourfully illustrated volumes of the Hamza-Nama, or Book of Hamza, commissioned by the emperor in the 1570s.
Jahangir continued his father’s legacy of artistic patronage. Jade from Khotan on the Silk Route was made into exquisite vessels for the emperor. The technique of enamelling, probably learned from Europeans, became one of the great Mughal arts. The dazzling appearance of the court inspired Sir Thomas Roe, England’s first ambassador to the Mughal emperor, to write to Prince Charles (later King Charles I) that Jahangir’s empire was “the treasury of the world”.
Under Jahangir, when the court, the royal household, servants and officials transferred from one major city to another, they were invariably accompanied by artists and craftsmen.
Shah Jahan became emperor after his father died in 1627. His coronation began a reign renowned for its sumptuous artistic production and its unified style. The vast wealth accumulated in the imperial treasuries allowed the ruler to follow his passion for architecture and to commission extravagant jewelled artefacts.
This unprecedented harmony in Mughal art was inspired by the Taj Mahal. Shah Jahan’s wife Arjumand Banu Begum, entitled “Mumtaz Mahal”, died giving birth to their 14th child. Within days, the grief-stricken emperor began planning a grand mausoleum for her in Agra, set within a large formal garden. The flowering plants, carved on its walls and inlaid in jewel-like colours on her white marble cenotaph, influenced artistic production at all levels.
Across the empire, artisans in specialist workshops replaced traditional patterns with blossoms in the new court style. Floral motifs were carved on emeralds, enamelled on gold vessels and weapons, and painted on the borders of album pages.
The Great Mughals: Art, Architecture and Opulence runs at the V&A until May 5, 2025.
CARLOS ALCARAZ will look to win his third consecutive Wimbledon title this year, reinforcing his position as the leading player on all surfaces. Jannik Sinner, who lost to Alcaraz in a closely fought French Open final, heads to London hoping to reverse the result.
Seven-time Wimbledon champion Novak Djokovic will also be in contention. At 38, this could be his best chance to win a record 25th Grand Slam title. Djokovic lost the last two Wimbledon finals to Alcaraz and will aim to reclaim the trophy at the All England Club.
With Andy Murray retiring, Jack Draper takes on the responsibility of leading British hopes. Other players in the mix include Alexander Zverev and Taylor Fritz, both chasing their first Grand Slam title and looking to break the recent dominance of Alcaraz and Sinner.
Alcaraz aims to join elite group with hat-trick
Alcaraz won the longest French Open final in the Open Era, maintaining his hold on the title. Between him and Sinner, they have won seven of the last eight majors. If Alcaraz wins this month, he will become only the fifth man in the Open Era to claim three straight Wimbledon titles. He would join Bjorn Borg, Pete Sampras, Roger Federer, and Djokovic.
Transitioning from clay to grass is often difficult, but Alcaraz has adapted well. He described the shift as "enjoyment and suffering" in equal measure.
"It's a bit of everything," Alcaraz said. He improved his win-loss record on grass to 29-3 after winning the Queen’s Club title.
"Ultimately it's a surface we don't play many matches on each year, and you have to learn from every experience on it, from every match you play.
"Every player is different with a different style on grass. You have to keep learning and getting to know yourself ... even when the numbers are in your favour."
Sinner still adapting to grass
Although Sinner has achieved more success than Alcaraz on hard courts, his grass record remains mixed. He exited early at Halle after losing to Alexander Bublik and now heads to Wimbledon with limited preparation. Last year, he reached the semi-finals at Wimbledon.
Sinner, who served a three-month ban earlier this year for doping violations, said he needed rest before the Championships begin Monday.
"I gave it my all after the Roland Garros defeat, it wasn't easy. Despite everything, I'm happy enough," Sinner said. He had three championship points in the five-set French Open final loss to Alcaraz.
"I played two matches before Wimbledon, if there had been more, it would have been better. Now I've got to boost myself both mentally and physically, that takes a little time."
Gentlemen's Singles - Projected Quarter-finals by Seeding
(1) Sinner vs (7) Musetti (4) Draper vs (6) Djokovic
(5) Fritz vs (3) Zverev (8) Rune vs (2) Alcaraz #Wimbledon — Wimbledon (@Wimbledon) June 27, 2025
Djokovic hopes to bounce back
Novak Djokovic heads into Wimbledon after reaching the French Open semi-final in a year that has otherwise not lived up to his usual standards. He has not played any warm-up events on grass but remains a strong contender.
Djokovic is aiming to match Roger Federer’s eight Wimbledon titles and surpass Margaret Court’s record of 24 Grand Slams.
"I'm going to do everything possible to get myself ready," Djokovic said after losing to Sinner in Paris.
"My best chances maybe to win another Grand Slam are Wimbledon, or a faster hard court, maybe Australia."
Zverev, Fritz and others look to challenge
World number three Alexander Zverev is also in the hunt, still chasing a maiden Grand Slam after three final losses. Taylor Fritz enters the tournament with momentum from winning in Stuttgart.
Others to watch include Daniil Medvedev, who finished runner-up in Halle, and Bublik, who defeated him there. Bublik’s unconventional playing style could pose a challenge for some top players over the next two weeks.
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The UK has agreed to move the aircraft to the Maintenance Repair and Overhaul (MRO) facility at the airport.
UK AVIATION engineers are arriving in Thiruvananthapuram to carry out repairs on an F-35B Lightning jet belonging to the Royal Navy, which has remained grounded after an emergency landing 12 days ago.
The jet is part of the HMS Prince of Wales Carrier Strike Group of the UK's Royal Navy. It made the emergency landing at Thiruvananthapuram airport on June 14. The aircraft, valued at over USD 110 million, is among the most advanced fighter jets in the world.
According to a spokesperson for the British High Commission, the aircraft is currently awaiting repairs at the Thiruvananthapuram international airport after it developed an engineering issue.
The UK has agreed to move the aircraft to the Maintenance Repair and Overhaul (MRO) facility at the airport.
"The aircraft will be moved to the hangar once UK engineering teams arrive with specialist equipment, thereby ensuring there is minimal disruption to scheduled maintenance of other aircraft," the spokesperson said.
The F-35B is the only fifth generation fighter jet with short takeoff and vertical landing capabilities, which allows it to operate from smaller decks, austere bases and ships.
The official said the aircraft would return to active service once the repairs and safety checks are completed.
"Ground teams continue to work closely with Indian authorities to ensure safety and security precautions are observed. We thank the Indian authorities and Thiruvananthapuram international airport for their continued support."
The aircraft was unable to return to HMS Prince of Wales due to adverse weather conditions.
Engineers from HMS Prince of Wales had assessed the aircraft after the emergency landing and determined that support from UK-based engineering teams was required.
The Indian Air Force had said a few days after the incident that it was providing all necessary support for the "rectification and subsequent return" of the aircraft.
Earlier this month, the HMS Prince of Wales Carrier Strike Group conducted military exercises with the Indian Navy.
In British service, the F-35B is referred to as the 'Lightning'. It is the short takeoff and vertical landing (STOVL) variant of the fighter jet, designed for use from short-field bases and air-capable ships.
(With inputs from PTI)
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Prada acknowledges Indian influence behind its Spring Summer 2026 men’s footwear
• Prada confirms Indian roots behind 2026 ‘leather sandals’ after controversy • Indian artisans and officials accused the brand of cultural appropriation • The footwear resembles traditional Kolhapuri chappals with GI status • Prada says designs are still in development and open to dialogue with India
Italian fashion label Prada has officially acknowledged that its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection includes footwear inspired by India’s traditional Kolhapuri chappals. The statement came after mounting criticism from Indian artisans and industry leaders, who claimed the brand showcased the design at Milan Fashion Week without recognising its origins.
Prada confirms Kolhapuri chappals inspired its 2026 Milan collectionInstagram/prada
Prada responds to Kolhapuri chappal row
In a letter addressed to Lalit Gandhi, President of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), Prada’s CSR head Lorenzo Bertelli confirmed the sandals were influenced by Indian craftsmanship. The fashion house admitted that the open-toe leather sandals presented on the Milan runway drew from the centuries-old Kolhapuri style, traditionally made by artisans in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
Kolhapuri chappals have been crafted for centuries and received GI tag in 2019 iStock
The controversy erupted after Prada described the footwear simply as “leather sandals” in its show notes, omitting any reference to India. This led to accusations of cultural appropriation and disregard for artisans' rights. BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik also led a group of Kolhapuri chappal makers to meet Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis, urging government action to protect their Geographical Indication (GI) status.
No production yet, says Prada, as India seeks fair credit
Prada clarified that the sandals shown were part of an early-stage design process and have not been confirmed for mass production. “None of the pieces are finalised or approved for commercial use,” Bertelli wrote.
MACCIA, in its communication, called for proper acknowledgement and possible collaboration or compensation for Indian artisans. The organisation stressed that Kolhapuri chappals are not just heritage products but also vital to the livelihoods of thousands of families.
In response, Bertelli assured Prada’s commitment to ethical design, cultural respect, and further engagement with Indian artisan communities. He also welcomed the opportunity for open dialogue on potential partnerships.
The Kolhapuri chappal, awarded GI status in 2019, is a symbol of regional identity and craftsmanship. As global fashion continues to borrow from traditional cultures, this case may set the tone for how brands address ownership, recognition, and respect.
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Shefali Jariwala dies at 42 after cardiac arrest in Mumbai hospital
Actor and model Shefali Jariwala passed away late Friday night in Mumbai at the age of 42.
She was rushed to Bellevue Multispeciality Hospital after a cardiac arrest but was declared dead on arrival.
The Kaanta Laga star was married to actor Parag Tyagi, who was seen grieving outside the hospital.
Mumbai Police and forensic teams are investigating, with an official cause of death yet to be confirmed.
Actor and television personality Shefali Jariwala, who rose to fame with the early 2000s music video Kaanta Laga, has died following a sudden cardiac arrest. The 42-year-old was declared dead at Bellevue Hospital in Mumbai late on Friday night, 28 June. Her husband, actor Parag Tyagi, reportedly rushed her to the hospital around midnight with the help of close friends.
Despite immediate medical attention, doctors could not revive her. A hospital source confirmed she was “dead on arrival” at 11:27 pm. Her death has left friends, fans, and colleagues in shock, as many described her as healthy, cheerful, and actively working.
Shefali Jariwala dies at 42 after cardiac arrest, industry mourns Kaanta Laga starInstagram/shefalijariwala
Tributes pour in for Shefali Jariwala from friends and co-stars
Condolences have flooded social media since the news broke. Actors Dipshikkha Nagpal, Karishma Tanna, and Arjun Bijlani remembered Shefali as a “beautiful soul” and a “vibrant, kind person”. Television personalities including Aarti Singh, Munmun Dutta, and Kushal Tandon expressed disbelief, while fellow Bigg Boss contestants like Madhurima Tuli and Monalisa shared emotional messages.
— (@)
Comedian Sunil Pal and actor Ashish Vidyarthi also recalled fond memories of working with her. The Cine & TV Artistes’ Association (CINTAA) issued a public tribute, acknowledging her impact on Indian entertainment. Her husband Parag Tyagi was seen outside the hospital and later at their residence, visibly heartbroken and carrying a framed photo of Shefali.
From IT graduate to household name: a brief look at her journey
Born in Mumbai in 1982, Shefali Jariwala held a degree in Information Technology before stepping into showbiz at 20. Her appearance in Kaanta Laga made her a pop culture phenomenon. She later appeared in films like Mujhse Shaadi Karogi, Kannada hit Hudugaru, and several music videos.
Shefali Jariwala was married to actor Parag Tyagi,Instagram/shefalijariwala
In 2019, she re-entered the limelight with Bigg Boss 13, earning praise for her calm yet assertive presence. Off-screen, she was candid about her health struggles, including epilepsy and anxiety, and had once spoken about her wish to adopt a daughter.
The police are awaiting autopsy results as investigations continue.
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Relatives carry the coffin of a victim, who was killed in the Air India Flight 171 crash, during a funeral ceremony in Ahmedabad on June 15, 2025. (Photo: Getty Images)
TWO weeks after the crash of Air India flight AI-171 in Ahmedabad, families of victims are grappling with grief and trauma. Psychiatrists are now working closely with many who continue to oscillate between denial and despair.
The crash occurred on June 12, when the London-bound flight hit the BJ Medical College complex shortly after takeoff, killing 241 people on board and 29 on the ground. Only one passenger survived.
The emotional impact of the incident continues to affect survivors and relatives of those who died.
Counselling support on the ground
In the immediate aftermath, the Department of Psychiatry at B J Medical College deployed a team of psychiatrists—five senior residents and five consultants—across locations including Kasauti Bhavan, the postmortem building, and the civil superintendent's office to support families.
"The accident was unimaginable. Even bystanders were disturbed. Then what must be the condition of someone who lost their loved one?" said Dr Minakshi Parikh, Dean and Head of Psychiatry at BJMC.
"If the people who heard the news were so disturbed, then it is not even within our scope to imagine the state of mind of the family members of people who lost their lives," she told PTI.
Processing grief in stages
As visuals of the crash began to circulate, families arrived in large numbers—many still hoping their relatives had survived. The existence of a lone survivor gave rise to hopes that it might be their loved one.
"There was an uncertainty whether one would be able to identify the loved ones they have lost and wait for matching of the DNA samples for three days. In some cases, samples of another relative of the kin had to be taken. The shock would have logically led to acute stress reactions and post-traumatic stress disorder," said Dr Parikh.
Dr Urvika Parekh, assistant professor and a member of the crisis response team, said denial was the immediate response among many families.
Facing denial and despair
"They kept asking for updates, insisting their family member had survived. Breaking the news gently, while having no confirmation ourselves, was incredibly difficult. We had to provide psychological first aid before anything else," she said.
Parekh said the hope placed on the lone survivor became a coping mechanism. "We had to deal with the denial and explain that nobody could have survived the horrific crash (except one who was not their relative)," she added.
Families were initially reluctant to accept counselling. "It was also difficult to accept the truth without seeing the bodies of their loved ones. Counselling aided them at this critical juncture," Parekh said.
She shared the case of a man who remained silent after losing his wife in the crash. "There was immense guilt—survivor guilt (that he is alive and his wife died). We gave him anti-anxiety medication to help ease the immediate stress. Eventually, he began to speak. He talked about their plans, their memories. It was catharsis. We didn't interrupt—we just let him speak and communicated through silence and empathy,” she said.
Parekh said that listening empathetically was a major part of the process. "We were managing their anger, outburst, and their questions like 'why us' (why did it have to happen to us)," she said.
The wait for DNA results was another major source of distress. With confirmation taking up to 72 hours or more, some families insisted they could identify their loved ones without DNA.
"There was one father who kept saying he didn't need DNA tests—he could identify his son by his eyes," said Parekh. "We had to gently discourage that. Seeing their loved ones in such a state could trigger PTSD and depression. We told them: it's better to remember them with a smile than with charred remains.”
Dr Parikh said the five commonly known stages of grief—denial, anger, bargaining, depression, and acceptance—were not experienced in a fixed sequence.
Lingering grief and support
"People cycle through these stages. Someone might accept the loss in the morning and fall back into denial by evening,” said Parekh. "So we mourned with them. That was part of the therapy".
Parekh stays in one of the residential buildings near the crash site. Her building was not damaged.
Some families found the waiting unbearable. One Air India crew member’s family had to wait seven days for DNA confirmation. “The exhaustion, the helplessness—it broke her mentally,” a relative said. “But the counselling helped. Those sessions were our only anchor."
"A calm voice, the right amount of information, and simply being there—these saved a lot of families from spiralling into chaos,” said Dr Parikh.